Lucky for me, I have discovered a teensy corner of Montreal that embodies Paris perfectly, and when I'm there voila I genuinely feel as though I'm on vacation. For years, whenever I feel the need for a hit of Paris, I go eat at a restaurant called L'Express, and browse/shop through two little stores just a few doors away, Arthur Quentin and Bleu Nuit.
Arthur Quentin is essentially a housewares store kicked up a notch with true Parisian flare. It is divided into three sections; one for china, glassware and fine linens, the middle one for kitchenwares, and the third for other areas of the home as well as personal things like purses, scarves and stationary. All of the sales people there speak French with a Parisian accent, which helps with the reverie. The prices run the gamut, with much of the fare being affordable, alongside other high end items.
Arthur Quentin, 3960 St. Denis. Look on-line to get a good idea of what it looks like inside the store, and the items they sell, but nothing beats going. www.arthurquentin.com
Across the street, and on the same side as L'Express, you'll find Bleu Nuit at 3913 St. Denis. Bleu Nuit is a bed and bath store. They sell high end linens, towels, and sleep ware. There aren't many affordable items here (there are some soaps and such), but oh la-la everything is exceptionally gorgeous, and worth experiencing even if only at arm's length.
Finally, la piece de resistance, L'Express is at 3927 St. Denis. There is no sign easily visible from the street, as the name is written out in a mosaic on the walkway in front. This place is a Montreal institution, although decidedly Parisian. The menu hardly changes, and the throngs of devoted regulars clearly like it that way (reservations are a good idea). This place has such an incredibly authentic Parisian bistro ambience, you'll swear you have been transported there. The service is respectful, though not warm, and the food is magnificently flavorful, while the presentation is decidedly understated, all very Parisian. The wine list is mainly private import from what I understand, therefore unless you are a wine connoisseur of regional French wines, you will be lost. I highly recommend asking your server to choose wine for you by the glass with each course (they have a large selection). My husband and I do this every time we go, either alone or with friends, and it has never failed us. I also feel that they secretly enjoy you bowing to their expertise, and therefore maybe you get slightly more attentive service, maybe not. If you are celebrating something special, you may wish to indulge in Kir Royale (a very French drink, which is champagne with a bit of fruit flavored liqueur at the bottom, they use Laurent Perrier Champagne, exceptionally exquisite). It is an experience! Overall things are reasonably priced with entrees going for between $20-30.
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